Valladolid Travel Guide: Ek Balam, Secret Cenotes & Why You Should Skip Chichen Itza
Everyone goes to Chichen Itza. They arrive in massive air-conditioned buses from Cancun, stand in the baking sun with 10,000 other people, and leave.
That is the wrong way to do the Yucatan.
Just down the road is Valladolid, a colonial town that feels weirdly like the Northern Quarter in Manchester—if the Northern Quarter had 35-degree heat and Mayan pyramids. It’s got the hipster cafes, the vintage Beetles, and the boutique shops, but it’s also the gateway to the real adventures.
This is your self-guided Valladolid Travel Guide for doing Valladolid right; finding the secret cenotes, climbing the ruins that others miss, and finding the best vegan tacos in Mexico.
📍 Why Go? (The Vibe)
Five years ago, Valladolid was a sleepy stopover. Today, it’s bustling, a bit more commercial, and yes, busier. But if you know when to go out (early morning or late evening when the tour buses vanish), it is magical.
It’s charming, it’s walkable, and it is the perfect basecamp for the rebel explorer.
🚌 How to Get There
Route: Many buses from all major cities in Yucatan
The Reality Check: We booked the ADO Bus from Playa del Carmen expecting the usual luxury coach with legroom. What we got was a cramped minivan. We were squished on the back row (four seats across) for the entire journey.
- Ride Time: Approx 1.5 – 2 hours.
- Cost: £10-£20 ($12-$25)
- Scenery: Don’t expect mountain vistas. The drive is flat, straight, and spectacularly unremarkable.
⚠️ CRITICAL TIP: The Time Zone Trap Quintana Roo (the coast) and Yucatan (inland) are often in different time zones! We arrived confused because the journey felt fast, but the clocks had gone back one hour.
- Check your phone settings immediately upon arrival, or you will miss your transport/tours.
🛌 Where to Stay
The Sweet Spot: Calle 48 Forget the noisy main square. We stayed at a small hostel on Calle 48, right in the thick of the hipster/boutique action but quiet enough to sleep.
- Our Cost: £16 ($20 USD) per night.
- What you get: A private ensuite room that felt like a mansion compared to the shoeboxes in Cozumel.
- Recommendation: Look for locally run hostels in this area. You get the location without the hotel price tag.
🌮 Where to Eat: The Taco Revelation
Valladolid is surprisingly excellent for herbivores. It’s packed with vegan-friendly spots (think hummus on toast and oat lattes).
The Must-Eat: Visit the local vegan cafes. We found a spot serving a trio of tacos—soya and seitan versions of classic Mexican meats (like cochinita pibil).
- Verdict: Incredible. Fresh corn tortillas, massive flavour. We went back twice. It’s messy, it’s cheap, and it’s authentic.
☠️ The Rebel’s Ruin: Ek Balam
Ditch Chichen Itza. Seriously. You can’t climb the pyramid there, and it’s a zoo.
Go to Ek Balam (“The Black Jaguar”) instead.
Why Ek Balam Wins:
- You Can Climb It: The main Acropolis pyramid is 30m high, and you can still climb to the top for a view over the endless jungle canopy.
- The Carvings: Halfway up, look for the “Earth Monster” doorway. The stucco carvings (teeth, statues) are insanely crisp because the Maya buried them for protection.
- The Crowd: It’s tiny compared to Chichen. We explored the whole site in 90 minutes comfortably.
How to Get There (The Hack):
- Public Bus: ~160 MXN per person (Ruins only).
- The Hostel Deal: We found a transport combo for 250 MXN per person. This included a private taxi to Ek Balam PLUS stops at two distant cenotes.
- The Maths: For an extra 90 pesos, you get a private driver and access to swimming spots you can’t reach by bus. Do the deal.
💧 The Cenote Guide: Tourist Trap vs. Hidden Gem
We visited two very different cenotes on this route. Here is the honest breakdown.
1. Cenote Chukum (The “Closed” Cave)
- Type: Underground Cave (Closed).
- Vibe: Very commercial. Large changing rooms, restaurant, ziplines inside.
- Experience: Impressive to look at, but the water was freezing and dark. It felt a bit like a theme park.
- Cost: 350 MXN ($20). Expensive.
- Verdict: Good for a zipline photo, bad for a relaxing swim.
2. Cenote Secreto Maya (The “Open” Gem)
- Type: Open-air jungle pool.
- Vibe: Wild, peaceful, and sunny. Roots hang down into the water.
- Experience: We were the only people there. The water was warmer, there’s a fun rope swing, and it felt like a real discovery.
- Cost: 250 MXN ($15).
- Verdict: The winner. Skip the cave, go here.
💰 The Budget Breakdown (Per Person)
Mexico isn’t as cheap as it used to be, especially for entry fees.
- Accommodation: £8 ($10) (Shared cost of double room)
- Transport to Ruins: 250 MXN (£10)
- Ek Balam Entry: ~500 MXN (£20) (Prices rise often!)
- Cenote Entries: 250 – 350 MXN (£10-£15) each.
Total Daily Spend: You can do this luxury-budget day for around £50-£60 per person including food and entries.
🎒 The Ocean to Jungle Verdict
Valladolid is the perfect transition from the commercial coast to the real Mexico. It’s a bit touristy now, but the Ek Balam + Secreto Maya combo is a genuine adventure.
