Backpacking Campeche: A Guide to Mexico’s Most Colourful Hidden Gem

Bylibbytes

If you’re backpacking Mexico, you’ll likely find yourself in the Yucatan, bouncing between the jungle ruins of Palenque and the cenotes of Mérida. But tucked away on the Gulf coast is a city that looks like it’s been hit by a Technicolor paint bomb: Campeche.

Most travellers skip it, but if you want to arrange your own travel in Mexico and find somewhere that isn’t overrun by tour groups, this UNESCO World Heritage city is a must. Here’s the lowdown on what to do in Campeche, where to stay, and how to survive the “Arctic” buses to get there.

🚌 How to get to Campeche (The DIY Way)

Getting here is actually one of the easiest parts of backpacking Campeche, provided you book ahead.

  • From Mérida: The ADO bus is your best bet.
    • Expert Tip: Check the ADO website/app a few days early. We snagged tickets for 50% off (about 180 pesos / £7 each) simply by being flexible with our timing.
    • The “Arctic” Warning: I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again—ADO buses are set to “Freezer Mode.” Wear your hoodie and leggings or prepare to become a human icicle for 2.5 hours.
  • The Terminal Situation: The main ADO terminal is outside the city walls. Grab a local taxi for a few pesos to take you into the Centro Historico.
  • Onward Travel (Bacalar): If you’re heading to Bacalar next, prepare for a long day. Information for second-class buses is non-existent online, so walk over to the second-class terminal (outside the walls, near the market) to check the physical paper timetables yourself.
Absolutely FREEZING on the bus to Campeche!!

🏠 Where to Stay: Inside the Walls

When backpacking Campeche, the rule is simple: Stay inside the walls. The historic centre is surrounded by massive 17th-century fortifications built to keep pirates out. Inside, it’s all cobbled streets and pristine pastel houses. Outside, it’s a bit more “real Mexico”—vibrant and gritty, but much further from the action.

  • The “Boutique Splurge”: We stayed in a gorgeous boutique hotel with a rooftop pool looking over the cathedral. By using cashback sites and hotel rewards, we got it down to £34 a night. It’s worth spending a few extra quid here to be able to walk home through the brightly lit plazas at night.

🦜 What to do in Campeche

While you might only need a day or two here, there’s plenty to keep a wildlife and history lover busy:

  1. Walk the City Walls: You can actually walk along the top of the baluartes (ramparts). It gives you a great perspective of the grid-like streets and the ocean.
  2. The Maya Architecture Museum: Located in the Baluarte de la Soledad, this museum is small but mighty. (Note: No photos allowed inside, so just soak it in!).
  3. The Malecón at Sunset: This is the sea-front boardwalk. It’s on the Gulf side, so the sunsets are spectacular. Keep an eye out for magnificent frigatebirds soaring over the water.
  4. Explore the Forts: If you have more time, take a taxi to Fuerte de San Miguel. It sits on a hill overlooking the city and houses some of the best Maya jade masks in the country.
  5. Nearby Ruins (Edzná): If you haven’t had your fill of ruins at Uxmal, the site of Edzná is just an hour away. It’s much quieter than the big-name sites and very impressive.

🥑 Being Vegan in Campeche

Finding vegan food in Campeche is a bit of a treasure hunt compared to Mérida, but it’s totally doable.

  • Vegan Tostadas: There are some great spots in the old town serving up fresh avocado tostadas and plant-based twists on Mexican classics.
  • The Market: Head outside the walls to the local market for incredibly cheap, fresh fruit (mangoes for days!) and snacks.
  • Coffee & Cake: The narrow streets are lined with cute cafes. Just ask for “sin lácteos” (without dairy)—most places are getting used to the “vegan” concept!

🎊 The “Surprise” Festival: Carnaval de Campeche

If you’re lucky enough to be here in late February or early March, you might stumble into a massive parade like we did.

Campeche hosts one of the oldest Carnivals in Mexico. We saw everything from tiny kids on mini-floats to huge, thumping LGTBQ+ pride floats with professional dancers. The atmosphere is electric—Oasis covers being busked on one corner and traditional Mexican music on the other. It’s pure chaos in the best way possible.

💰 The Cost Breakdown (Per Person)

  • Bus from Merida: £7 (with 50% discount)
  • Boutique Hotel: £17 per night (shared)
  • Vegan Meal out: £6 – £10
  • Museum Entry: Roughly 50-70 Pesos

Campeche might lack the “grit” and constant buzz of Mérida, but its quiet charm and pirate-proof walls make it a standout stop on any Mexico itinerary.

Read my original blog post here:

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