Mountain Gorilla Trekking in Uganda (Nkuringo Gate) — A Real “No Tour Bus” Guide
Ditch the tour bus. Pack snacks. Meet gorillas. Nearly cry on a hill.
Welcome to my complete guide to trekking mountain gorillas independently in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest — including the notoriously tough Nkuringo trail.
This isn’t your polished safari-brochure take. This is the real “I-hugged-a-toilet-at-sunrise-and-still-cried-at-a-gorilla” version. Because adventure ≠ comfort. And that’s why we love it.
🌍 Why Trek Mountain Gorillas?
If you’re comparing gorilla experiences (hello, Congo vs Uganda vs Rwanda rabbit hole), here’s the quick-and-nerdy table:
| Feature | Mountain Gorillas (Bwindi / Virunga) | Lowland Gorillas (Congo / Gabon etc) |
|---|---|---|
| Species | Gorilla beringei beringei | Gorilla gorilla gorilla |
| Habitat | Misty, high-altitude cloud forest | Lowland rainforest/swamps |
| Trek style | STEEP. Muddy. Legs crying. | Flatter jungle (usually) |
| Numbers left | ~1,060 | ~250,000 |
| Why special | Critically endangered & only here | More common (still amazing!) |
| Overall vibe | Jurassic Park meets Stairmaster Level 100 | Deep jungle explorer fantasy |
There are only three places on earth to see mountain gorillas.
Uganda is the dream combo of wildlife + affordability + independent travel.
So yes — they’re special.
🚗 How to Get There (No Tour Required)
Fly to:
Entebbe International Airport (EBB)
Then:
Rent a car → Drive to Bwindi.
We paid $45/day for a 2L 4×4 from Tristar African Skimmer Safaris — they also arranged our permits.
Tip: Only refuel at big brands (Shell/BP etc). Small stations = dodgy fuel = sad engine = sad you.
Drive time:
~9–10 hours to Bwindi
Lots of people. Lots of goats. Zero boring moments.
You’ll see:
- Marabou storks on the roadside (massive!)
- People carrying more on their heads than I can fit in my backpack
- Lush hills that make you question every African savannah documentary you’ve ever watched
🛏️ Where to Stay
We stayed at Ichumbi Gorilla Lodge (Rushaga) — lovely, comfy, jungle-y vibes.
Gates Cheat Sheet
| Gate | Difficulty | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Nkuringo | 🌋 HARD | Beautiful, dramatic, brutal. We did this one. |
| Rushaga | Moderate | Closest to Ichumbi |
| Buhoma | Easier | Popular & established |
| Ruhija | Moderate | Beautiful highlands |
We slept at Rushaga but trekked from Nkuringo (~45–60 min bumpy drive).
If you want “I don’t value my knees” challenge — do Nkuringo.
If you want a walk in the park— maybe choose another gate.
💸 Costs
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Gorilla permit (Uganda) | $700–$800 USD pp (rising to $800+ depending on year) |
| Driver-guide (optional) | Not needed if self-driving ✅ |
| Rental 4×4 | $45/day |
| Porter | $20–$30 (pay more if they save your life — they will) |
| “Helicopter” (aka people carrying you) | $300 if you’re tired, free if injured |
Pay a porter. Even if you’re fit. Even if you CrossFit. Even if you “don’t need help”.
Supporting locals matters — and they might literally catch you sliding off a mountain.
We got a porter (Alex), but carried our own bags – that’s a nice compromise. But then as we went off-track, Alex held my hand and stopped me slipping down 40ft into the river… Worth every penny in my books…
🥾 The Trek: Brutal Beauty & a Silverback with Attitude
What should you really expect?
- 5:30am wake up
- Dirt road rally ride
- Winding roads + altitude + nerves = potential toilet-hugging (I did)
- Steep challenging paths (and OFF-PATH) through the densest jungle you’ve ever seen…
Then jungle. Vines. Machetes. Steam-powered legs.
This is NOT a tourist path — it’s pure rainforest adventure.
Then… a 500lb silverback named Bahati charged people in our group.
Normal behaviour. Terrifying behaviour. Both are equally true.
He beat his chest – the sound was chilling and deafening. It was a proclamation to all – This is MY family, this is MY forest. And who could argue with him. We were in awe of him…
I didn’t take photos until I emotionally returned to my body. And that’s ok. You won’t too…
🐾 other Wildlife You May See
Beyond gorillas:
- L’Hoest’s monkeys
- Colobus monkeys
- Turacos & hornbills
- Butterflies that look like they came from Pandora in Avatar
- Ants who absolutely do not respect personal space
💡 Tips for Trekking Independently
👉 Book permits early – Read my guide on how to book independently
👉 Rent a 4×4
👉 Start early
👉 Hire a porter (seriously, do it)
👉 Snacks & water = life
👉 Long sleeves and long pants are a MUST
👉 Expect mud, sweat, mild panic, and joy
Fitness level: Moderate to Very Fit
Nkuringo difficulty: Mountain goat required
🧠 What Is a “Habituated” Gorilla Group?
It means rangers spend 2+ years slowly getting gorillas used to humans so they don’t see us as a threat. They might show a threat of strength when you first arrive at the group, but then they
Habituated ≠ tame.
As Bahati demonstrated with a casual “I can yeet you” forearm swipe to a member of our group. Read my blog post here!
You still keep distance (7m+) and listen to guides.
You get 1 hour of alloted time with the group before you move on.
❓ Is It Safe?
Yes — with trained rangers and strict rules.
Is it emotionally safe when a silverback sprints at you?
…define safe.
But guides manage risks incredibly well + gorillas don’t want to hurt people — just remind us who’s boss (spoiler: it’s them).
🎒 Gear I Actually Used & Recommend
- Binoculars – spotting gorillas & forest birds – the BEST ones I’ve ever had
- Trekking boots – it gets muddy and steep – DON’T use new ones – break them in!
- Acai Hiking trousers (I swear by mine) – waterproof, breathable, sweat-proof, flexible, lightweight – the ULTIMATE jungle-proof trousers!
- Vapur Foldable Reusable water bottle – Game changer…
- Daypack – Lightweight and holds it off your back – perfect for jungle humidity
- Snacks – Vegan, high in protein and delicious
I’ll add links in my gear guide 👇
(coming soon, promise — I’m just still emotionally processing Bahati)
🙋♀️ FAQs
Can I trek without a tour company?
Yes — we did. Rent a car + book permits.
Do I need a porter?
Yes morally and practically. Pay the humans.
Will I cry?
In at least one moment — yes.
Was it worth the $800+ permit?
1000%. Life-altering. Would (and will) do again.
Would I choose Nkuringo again?
…ask my knees. But probably yes.
🎥 Watch Our Trek
Final Thoughts
This is not a safari in a comfy jeep.
This is mud, altitude, adrenaline, awe, and one enormous gorilla called Bahati teaching you who runs the jungle.
And it is one of the greatest wildlife experiences on Earth.
Ditch the tour bus.
Find the animal.
Take the porter.
Tell Bahati I say hi.
