Floating in Amphawa
In previous visits to Thailand, I had heard about the floating markets in and around Bangkok, but I had also heard that they were very touristy and not really authentic, just tourist attractions. However on our trip south from Bangkok, I decided to give one a go, it’s low season after all, and even if it’s touristy, it might still be very nice, and the countryside here and the rivers are supposed to be beautiful.
So the first stop was to get to Samut Songkhram. There are only commuter trains to get here from Bangkok, so we got a grab taxi to drop us at the train station Wongwian Yai, and then caught the commuter train for 10 baht each to Maha Chai in Samut Sakhon. From here, the train line does continue, but it’s over the river in Tha Chalon (Ban Laem station)! So you get off the train, walk to a ferry station, take a short ferry over the river (which is 4 Baht) then walk again to the next station.
The walks were longer than we expected with our heavy bags and in the heat of the day, and unfortunately the train times don’t really match up (but we knew this in advance), so we had a wait of about 1.5 hours on the other side at Ban Laem for the 2nd train to Samut Songkram.
Luckily the area near the station is pretty, with a few temples, Buddha statues, a pink pier, and a few cute kitties which needed cuddles!
The train finally arrived and we boarded for another 10 baht – a very cheap journey in total! And we were the only Westerners on board. It was definitely a local train!
We drove through beautiful countryside, mostly rice paddies and shrimp farms which were lush, green and wet. There were a lot of egrets and storks on the route, and lots of stops, but the stations were usually very tiny, and only occasionally did someone get on or off.
Arriving into Mae Klong Station in Samut Songkhram was really cool, because the last stretch of the tracks is a famous railway market. Since the train only comes 4 times a day, all the vendors, restaurants and cafes just pack up and move temporarily, folding in the sun shades etc., whilst they wait for the train to pass, then move back into the tracks again once it’s gone.
As we pulled into the station we were only inches away from the shops either side, and there were lots of people hiding in alleys watching and videoing the train as we passed.
We walked a short distance to our hostel, which was advertised as a private room, and was very cheap (about £9 a night for both of us). But when we got to the room we saw why… I think a prison cell would have been bigger! It was basically a tiny room built exactly around bunk beds, and just enough space to stand next to the beds. There wasn’t even enough space to put our backpacks in the room… I’m not even exaggerating!! Plus the bed was insanely firm. Dave joked that camping on the grass was more comfortable, and I have to agree, we both woke up aching with sore hips… The trials and tribulations of Backpacking in your 30s/40s 🤣
We had planned to stay 2 nights, luckily I’d only booked one so far… So we looked at other options…
Samut Songkhram was also a nightmare for food, and we spent about an hour walking up and down the night market trying to find something vegetarian, before eventually giving in and getting a cheese toasty from 7-11… Definitely a low point so far 🤣
In the morning, we headed back to the railway market for breakfast and to watch the train come through – from the other side this time… But wow was it busy with tourists, both domestic and lots of westerners on day trips from Bangkok, with little stickers on their chests, it was INSANE!! There were so many people, all taking selfies and pushing each other for the best spots along the track for photos. It was too much, we couldn’t believe it.
I think it’s moments like this I can’t help but compare back to backpacking 10 years ago… Instagram was only just launched and wasn’t that big. People went to attractions to look at them with their eyes and actually enjoy them. Whereas now it seems like most people’s primary purpose when visiting places is to get “that Instagram shot”, and that’s all they do, rather than actually try and enjoy the experience, it’s all about the photo. I like photos, but life shouldn’t be “all about the photo”, surely??
I really think social media has ruined a lot of places because of this. We would have loved to just sit in the restaurant and enjoy the train going past, instead we just saw people fight for the best photo spot and take selfies in front of us, and could barely even see the train… Then after the train passed everyone was a zombie just staring at their phone… ☹️
After lunch, we had planned to visit Amphawa floating market, which is described online and in the reviews as one of the best and more authentic floating markets in and around Bangkok. But in order to escape our prison cell, we decided to pack up or stuff and stay there too, and booked a little homestay on the river bank just down from the market. And what a good decision that was. The place was beautiful, right on the river and perfect walking distance to the market. Plus a comfy bed, and a few veggie options here too. We were back on track!
We spent the day walking around the market, and did a boat cruise around the canals for 50 Baht each, very affordable. But I was quite surprised, there wasn’t much “floating” going on. I had imagined market stalls on boats, and fresh fruit and veg being sold on the back of boats. Or perhaps you could only visit the stalls in the river edge from a boat? But no… The market was essentially just a normal market, but just on the river edge, with paths and walkways, and then boats to take you for sightseeing trips. No shops on boats unfortunately ☹️. There was one boat with someone making pad thai on it… but that was all. Still, it was picture-postcard pretty, with the wooden style houses on stilts next to the river.
Plus the river was slowly rising from the moment we arrived….
Then in the evening we took a boat to go and see fireflies further down the river for just 60 baht each.
Dave nipped to the shop, and in the time he was there, the river continued to rise, and it came over the top of the paths and stranded him at the shop haha!!
Luckily the firefly boat picked me up from the homestay and I told them where Dave was, and we rescued him on the way!!
The next morning we chilled at the homestay, watching the river, the birds, and the monitor lizards. Amphawa was such a pretty little village and I’m so glad we stayed here rather than just visiting briefly, or even (heaven forbid) coming on a day trip from Bangkok. I think when you stay somewhere a bit longer, you start to see it in a different light, and although Amphawa was a bit touristy (mostly domestic) the houses, the river, the connection to nature and the people made the village seem wholly more authentic.
Watch the full story on my YouTube Travel Alchemist here:
