The Ultimate Bacalar Travel Guide: Backpacking Mexico’s Lake of Seven Colours

Welcome to Bacalar. Often dubbed the “Maldives of Mexico,” this 42km-long freshwater lagoon is a world away from the salty, seaweed-heavy beaches of the Riviera Maya.

​If you’re backpacking Mexico and looking for a spot that combines geological wonders, ancient history, and world-class vegan food, Bacalar is it. Here is everything we learned during our one-year backpacking trip—including the things the guidebooks won’t tell you.

📍​Where is Bacalar?

​Where is Bacalar exactly? You’ll find this hidden gem in the state of Quintana Roo, tucked right down in the south of Mexico, just a stone’s throw (about 30 minutes) from the Belize border.

​Unlike the Caribbean Sea nearby, Bacalar is a freshwater lagoon fed by underground cenotes and rivers. Its famous “seven colours” come from the white limestone bottom and varying depths, creating a spectrum of blues that honestly looks like a filter in real life.

​🚍 How to get to Bacalar (The Niche Route from Campeche)

​Most people take the first-class ADO bus from Tulum or Playa del Carmen, but if you are coming from the west, finding out how to get a bus from Campeche to Bacalar can be a nightmare to research online.

​The Renegade Route:

We opted for the 2nd class SUR bus from Campeche.

• ​Cost: $473 pesos (vs $990 for ADO).
• Departs from: SUR Terminal de Autobuses, Av Gobernadores 479, Barrio de Sta Ana, Campeche.
• Arrives at: ADO Terminal Chetumal
• ​Duration: Roughly 8 hours.
• ​The Experience: Unlike the direct ADO, this bus stops at every roadside village where someone has their hand out. It’s slower, but far more authentic.
• ​❄️Pro Tip: Be prepared for the driver to stop for a 30-minute breakfast burrito break on the side of the road while passengers look on in confusion. Also, the AC is notoriously set to “Arctic Tundra”—bring a jumper or risk hypothermia like Dave did!

Once you reach Chetumal, it’s a quick local, or ADO, bus or taxi up to Bacalar. We opted for the ADO bus as it leaves from the same station as the SUR bus from Campeche arrives. It costs approximately $200 MXN per person and drops you at the ADO Bacalar station outside of town. But it’s a short and quick taxi into town, and the town uses Uber.

🛏​ Where to Stay in Bacalar (And where NOT to)

​I’m going to be real with you: do not stay in the “glamping” spots outside of town. We initially booked a spot away from the centre thinking it would be “nature-filled” and romantic. It was actually “mossie heaven.” We checked in after dark, saw the swarm (I’m genuinely not exaggerating!), and immediately noped out of there.

Our Recommendation: Stay in the town centre. We moved to a lovely little homestay called Ukayil. It was central, peaceful, and run by lovely people. Being in town means you can walk to the market and the best vegan spots without needing a taxi every five minutes.

​💧What to do in Bacalar

​Los Rapidos (The Absolute Highlight)

​If there is one thing you do, make it Los Rapidos. It is absolutely worth the hype. You pay a small entry fee ($200 MXN at the time of writing) to the restaurant/beach club, walk up a wooden boardwalk, and then jump into a narrow channel where the current gently carries you down the lagoon.

• ​Why it’s great: The water is crystal clear, there are heaps of fish, and the banks are lined with massive stromatolites.

​The Boat Tour: An Honest Review

​We did a half-day boat tour to see the three cenotes within the lake (Cenote Negro, Cenote Esmeralda, and Cenote Cocalitos), plus Bird Island and the Pirate Canal.

• ​The Verdict: While the colours were stunning, it felt a bit restrictive. You’re often limited to swimming in shallow, sandy areas where the water gets cloudy. If you want to snorkel, the boat tours might disappoint. However, seeing the 180m drop-off at Cenote Negro from the surface is a proper “wow” moment.

​Public Swimming Spots

​If you’re travelling Bacalar on a budget, head to the Balneario Municipal. It’s a free wooden jetty where you can dive straight into the turquoise water. It gets busy with locals, but the vibe is great, especially at sunset.

The Night Market

Head to the main square in the evening for handmade crafts, pumping music and local street food vendors. Keep your eyes out for hunting bats!

​🪨 The Science Bit: What is a Stromatolite?

​As a scientist, this was the part I was most excited about. You’ll see “rocks” all over Bacalar, but what is a stromatolite exactly?

​Stromatolites are not rocks. They are living microbial reefs formed by colonies of cyanobacteria.

• ​The OGs of Earth: These are some of the oldest life forms on the planet. Some fossils date back 3.5 billion years.
• ​The Oxygen Creators: Billions of years ago, these organisms were responsible for the “Great Oxidation Event,” pumping oxygen into our atmosphere and making complex life (like us!) possible.
• ​Fragile Beauty: They grow incredibly slowly (milimetres per year). Never step on them. Even a light touch can destroy thousands of years of growth. In Bacalar, they are one of the few places in the world where you can still see them growing in freshwater.

🐦‍⬛​ What Wildlife to See in Bacalar

​For my fellow birders, keep your binoculars handy!

• ​Wood Storks: Bird Island (Isla de los Pájaros) is a major nesting site. We saw dozens of Wood Storks roosting in the trees.
• ​Snail Kites: Often seen hovering over the reeds looking for—you guessed it—freshwater snails.
• Great-tailed Grackles: You can’t miss these. They are the “chaos agents” of the main square. We love them—they have so much character and an insane diversity of calls that sound like everything from a rusty gate to a space laser.
• Bats & Leaf-Cutter Ants: Head to the park or the quieter roads near the fort at dusk. You’ll see bats swooping low over the water, and if you look at the ground, you’ll likely find a “highway” of a trillion leaf-cutter ants carrying bits of jungle back to their nest. It’s mesmerising to watch.
• ​Freshwater Fish: At Los Rapidos, the water is clear enough to see various cichlids and tropical freshwater species darting between the stromatolites.

​🥑 Vegan Bacalar: Where to Eat

​For being a relatively small town, Vegan Bacalar options are surprisingly elite.

• ​Mango y Chile: The holy grail of vegan tacos, burgers and shakes with a view over the lagoon.
• ​Mi Burrito: They do an incredible burrito made with hibiscus flowers. It sounds weird, but the texture is amazing and it’s a total flavor bomb.
• Yerbabuenas: Great for fresh juices and healthy breakfast bowls.

​Final Thoughts

​Bacalar is a rare gem that feels prehistoric and high-end all at once. Whether you’re floating down the rapids or geeking out over 3-billion-year-old bacteria, it’s a must-stop on any Mexico backpacking itinerary.